Jones Bridge: A Legacy of Resilience and Revival in Manila
The newly restored Jones Bridge is easily recognizable by its beautifully designed black lamp posts—the same ones that were there when the bridge was first
The San Agustin Museum, situated within the historic San Agustin Church complex in Intramuros, Manila, stands as a testament to the rich cultural and religious heritage of the Philippines. Housed in the former convent of the San Agustin Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the museum offers visitors a deep dive into the country’s colonial past and ecclesiastical history.
A significant feature of the museum is its collection of ecclesiastical vestments. These elaborate garments, richly embroidered and adorned with precious metals and stones, were used during religious ceremonies and showcase the artisans’ exceptional skills. Each piece contributes to the broader narrative of the church’s impact on Philippine culture.
The San Agustin Museum is also dedicated to preserving the history of the Augustinian Order in the Philippines, highlighting their substantial contributions to the country’s development. Through thoughtfully curated exhibits, visitors can learn about the missionaries’ roles in education, healthcare, and the spread of Christianity.
The Library of the San Agustin Convent has a storied history, beginning in 1571 as one of the Philippines’ premier libraries. Over the centuries, it faced significant losses: British looters in 1762, American souvenir hunters in 1898, and World War II devastation in 1945 severely diminished its collection. Despite these losses, the library still houses several thousand volumes from 1540 to the present, standing as a testament to its historical legacy and resilience.
The Sala Recibidor, evolving over time, initially served as an aula or classroom in the late 16th century, marking the establishment of the first formal school in the Philippines. By the 18th century, it became the office of the Procurator, who managed the temporal goods of the Augustinian Friars. In 1877, it was repurposed as a reception room for guests. Since 1970, the Sala Recibidor has been an integral part of the San Agustin Museum, showcasing various collections and reflecting its ongoing role in preserving and presenting the museum’s heritage.
A door in the antesala leads to the cloister corridors, where each of the four corners features a retablo—an intricately carved backdrop for the altar table. Historically, religious processions and rituals took place here, with each retablo dedicated to a major saint. For instance, one retablo dedicated to San Nicholas de Tolentino depicts the saint framed by solomonica columns and illuminated by a star-like celestial light as he saves souls in purgatory.
Along the corridor, paintings by artists like Rafael Enriquez, Sr., the first dean of the University of the Philippines School of Fine Arts in 1909, and Augusto Fuster, a Spanish artist and photographer from the 1930s, depict significant episodes in the lives of Augustinian saints.
The museum’s grand main stairway ascends 30 meters to the upper floor and features 44 granite steps, each 3 meters long, imported from Canton, China, between 1786 and 1789. The stairway’s design includes a brick vault with an 8-meter diameter, completed in 1863 by Architect Luciano Oliver. Symbolically, the stairway represents humanity’s aspiration to reach higher realms—be it the moon, stars, or sun. The walls are adorned with paintings of Augustinian saints and martyrs who exemplified sanctity through their devotion.
The Inner Garden of the San Agustin Museum was once a peaceful retreat for the Augustinian Friars, designed to evoke the Garden of Paradise. It provided a tranquil space for contemplation and connection with nature and God, enhanced by the soothing sound of the central fountain.
Architecturally, the courtyard reflects influences from Augustinian monasteries in Mexico, particularly one in Yuriria from the 1550s. The friar-architects employed advanced design techniques, including earthquake-resistant buttresses typical of Earthquake Baroque, giving the cloister a fortress-like appearance. During World War II, the San Agustin Church and monastery were used as a concentration camp. Approximately 700 Intramuros residents were detained within the cloisters, using the central fountain for water until it became contaminated. The ornamental palm trees seen today are replacements for those cut down by prisoners for firewood.
The Antigua Sacristia, once renowned as the most beautiful hall in the monastery, features a grand Baroque retablo carved by Juan de los Santos from San Pablo de los Montes in Laguna and installed in 1617. It was relocated to the old sacristy as it was deemed too small for the church. The original ivory and wood santos were lost to looting and war, but the niches now display santos from the Augustinian monastery in Cebu.
This chamber also served as a space for offering refreshments during religious processions and for praying over shrouded cadavers before burial. During the 1875 painting of the church by Italian painter Albert Albergoni, the Antigua Sacristia was used for masses. In February 1945, amidst the Liberation of Manila, it hosted the fiesta of Our Lady of Lourdes of the Capuchinos.
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The Antesacristia houses the museum’s ivory collection. The craft of ivory carving, known as “garing” in Tagalog, has been banned due to the illegal ivory trade’s impact on wildlife. The slight curve of ivory statuettes, such as the corpus of the crucifix on display, results from the natural curve of elephant tusks. During Spanish times, tusks were imported from Africa and India through trade with China, and local craftsmen developed their carving skills in collaboration with Chinese artisans.
A chamber passage connects to the choir loft and sits directly under the bell tower, serving as a private chapel for the community. The grand Baroque retablo here contains a stoup for holy water and was originally from the old side chapel in the main church. It was removed when the church was dedicated to Miguel Lopez de Legazpi. The central niche of the retablo features a crucifix brought by Fray Alonso de Mentrida in 1602. Legend holds that this crucifix, once placed over the choir loft railings, extended its hand in absolution to a friar who, on his deathbed, had not received the last rites.
On August 1, 1617, Rector Provincial Fray Vicente Sepulveda was found murdered in the celda prioral. To identify the culprits, his body was arranged with its index finger pointing towards the antecoro entrance. Friars who came to pay their respects were asked to feel the heart of each friar to determine the guilty party. The identified culprits were executed, and their remains were buried within the monastery walls.
A central feature of the San Agustin Museum is its remarkable choir stalls, or “sillería,” which hold significant historical and artistic value. Commissioned between 1608 and 1610 by Fr. Miguel García Serrano, the 68 intricately carved stalls were crafted from “kamagong” wood, with inlays of “narra” and other varieties. Each stall features elaborate strapwork motifs, including representations of the sun, the eagle, and Augustinian symbols such as the heart, mitre, and pastoral staff. The Provincial stall, located at the center, includes a bas-relief of Saint Augustine. The stalls were carved by Chinese artisans, as indicated by their distinctive monster marks, and each one is equipped with a “mercy” or “misericordia” to support the infirm during extended prayers.
The choirloft, which houses these historic stalls, offers a stunning panoramic view of the San Agustin Church and monastery. From this vantage point, visitors can appreciate the richly Baroque interior of the church and the splendid trompe l’oeil painting on the massive barrel vault ceiling. The choirloft not only serves as a key architectural and artistic highlight but also embodies the space where the Augustinian community gathered for daily prayers, reflecting the loftiness of their spiritual aspirations.
The San Agustin Pipe Organ is a notable historical artifact. The church’s first pipe organ, made of wood, deteriorated over time. Historic documents reveal that the organ was constructed using molave, narra, baticuling, and tindalo woods, with tuba or coconut wine used as glue and ivory on the keyboard. Although the master builder remains unknown, the organ is often attributed to Fray Diego Cera, the renowned creator of the Las Piñas Bamboo Organ.
Notable composers of church music lived in the monastery, including Marcelo Adonay from Pakil, who founded an esteemed orchestra during his time at San Agustin.
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